Well, it has finally arrived…the day that seemed like it never would. I have arrived to my final site for good, and shall remain here for the next 2 years. I am now an official volunteer, and should theoretically be fully prepared to live on the edge of the Sahara for the next 2 years of my life.
Apologies to those of you who have been waiting for a new update for the past few weeks and have failed to receive one until now. As usual, I have been incredibly busy, yet these past 2 weeks have been an unusual exception since it was the home stretch of pre-service training. In the past few weeks we have crammed for our final language exam, taken it, met up with the small business development group, continued technical training, had a larger thanksgiving dinner than I ever deemed possible, and gotten sworn in as official volunteers. Figuring out where to begin with a blog entry has thus become a more difficult task than it typically should be.
How about I start with Thanksgiving dinner. I'm not really sure what to say about it other than it was better than I ever thought was possible in a country in which its celebration does not exist. Fortunately, however, Morocco is a culture in which most holidays are celebrated by a huge feast of some sort, so in this case, they could certainly relate to it a lot more than something like Halloween. We had about 10 volunteers on cooking staff, who successfully managed to cook for about 80 people (67 volunteers and nearly 15 language teachers and staff members). It was impressive, to say the least.
Following thanksgiving was the tail end of training. This involved a ton of power points reviewing policies and safety procedures...not a big surprise. One of the highlights of meeting up with the SBD group was the SBD vs. YD talent show. For this I decided that it was only necessary to write an end of PC training song and perform it with a fellow volunteer musician. It worked out well...we sang it to the tune of Pink Floyd's "The Wall", and touched on many common training subjects, such as seemingly never ending power points, diarreah, and the feeling one has when initially being dropped off into the middle of nowhere for the next 2 years of one's life. Judging by the overwhelming laughter, everyone seemed to enjoy it.
Swearing in was perfect. We had it held in what must be the nicest hotel in all of Fes; on the top of a mountain overlooking the Medina, right next to some old Roman ruins. Everyone that I have interacted with since being in Morocco was in attendance...including my first host family. It was great to see them and catch up in broken Arabic...they did mention that my language had improved, which was encouraging since it is sometimes difficult for me to tell. Three of the volunteers from my stage gave speeches in Moroccan Arabic, Tamazigte, and Tashlehete...although I had trouble understanding most of it, the host country nationals(HCN's) in the audience seemed really receptive. A job well done.
I am currently in what will soon become my apartment, which I have taken over from a current volunteer. I am very happy with it, especially since I can play put-put golf on the roof(thanks to the creativity of the former volunteer), and get hot showers and internet right away. He even left me a full jar of Skippy peanut butter! His efforts will not be forgotten. This will have to be all for now, however, now that I have my own internet connection, and no longer have training to deal with, entries should be much more frequent(this time I'm serious). Until next time...
Thursday, November 29, 2007
Monday, November 12, 2007
Tinjdad...more information
In search of more information on Tinjdad, I stumbled upon the following information, most of which I took out of the blog of a former Tinjdad PCV, Andy. After visiting Tinjdad for a week, I find everything said in its description of the present to be very accurate. Enjoy!
Tinjdad, Morocco
The town of Tinjdad, Morocco is located in Eastern Morocco on the main road from Ouarzazate to Errachidia/Erfoud about forty kilometers past Tinghir. Most of its population consists of Berbers from the Ait Merad tribe, and despite the French and Arab conquests of the Berbers of Morocco, its original culture and language are largely intact as you can quickly observe in their daily activities, primary spoken language, and traditions.
Its History
Originally, Tinjdad consisted of a small desert oasis called Ferkla. Its first inhabitants were nomads, called injda in their native tongue, traveling from the nearby High Atlas Mountains and the Jbel Sarhro mountains. As time passed, more and more of injda built ksars within the Ferkla oasis, making it their permanent home. Generally, each ksar was surrounded by walls with some watchtowers at different points and one or several huge entrances and was made up several houses, a mosque, a place for parties and sometimes an inn. The Ferkla oasis continued to grow and a large marketplace was built in the center of the Asrir ksar, where all of the major trade in the area took place. Within the oasis, there was also a large population of Jews who contributed largely to the craftsmanship and business activities of the area. When the French colonized Morocco, they moved the commercial center of the town to its current location. Post-French colonization, the area was given its present-day name Tinjdad, which in the original Berber dialect of the region means “place of nomads.” The entire Jewish population has since vanished but a significant portion of the population is still of Berber decent and speaks the Berber dialect of Tamazight.
Its Present
Tinjdad is well worth a visit if you happen to be going to the nearby Gorges of Tinghir or Boulmane Dades or if you are on your way to the dunes of Merzouga. Tinjdad is home to 18 intact ksars, a museum, an artifacts crafts gallery, a small art gallery, a unique hotel, and several charming cafes. You can visit several of the ksars on foot, bicycle, or in a car (Asrir, El Korbat, Sat, and Gaardmit are highly recommended). The museum and hotel are inside the El Korbat ksar. The museum primarily exhibits the past and present daily life and culture of the Berbers in the area (in Spanish, French, English, Catalina, and Arabic). The hotel is a top-notch establishment cleverly woven throughout the inside of the ksar’s walls. Zaid’s Gallery contains several old crafts and artifacts from the area and is owned by a local of the same name (he speaks English, French, German, and Arabic). Rachid Bouskri’s art gallery is located near the road to Asrir, and Rachid is a local artist who primarily paints impressionistic and abstract works with the general theme of each work encompassing daily life in Tinjdad (he speaks Tamazight, French, Arabic, and a little English). He is also my host brother, and has been amazingly helpful in getting me settled in and introducing me to the town. The two most notable cafes are Café Panorama and Café Ferkla (Both owners speak French, Arabic, and a little English). While both boast good food, charm, and plenty of tea and coffee, Café Panorama is located on the front edge of town facing Tinghir and has a panoramic view of the surrounding palm oasis and mountains. Café Ferkla is located on the other side of town near the main market, and if you come by on a souk day (Sunday and Wednesday), this area is bustling. For more information, please email any questions or requests to visit_tinjdad@yahoo.com .Tahruets
Before concrete houses came to the small desert villages in Eastern Morocco, most people lived in large mud buildings that were linked together to form ksars. Within these ksars, women could come and go to gather water and attend the fields; however, when a woman left her house, it was normal and expected that she cover most of herself in a shawl/scarf referred to as a tahruet. At first, tahruets were a simple solid black, the color chosen to better absorb heat from the sun. Later on, women began to embroider colorful Berber symbols on the tahruets.
In the towns of Tinejdad and Goulmima and the surrounding villages, the embroidery on tahruets consists of brightly colored ancient Berber symbols, usually coming from modifications of the popular letter Z from the Tamazight alphabet (tifinagh), which has come to stand for Berber pride. There are also a few symbols that represent the moon and the stars, which are very important to the Berber tribes near the Sahara since they are essential for activity and travel in the desert nights. The tahruets of this area are similar because most of the people are descendants of the Ait Merad Berber tribe. In many of the towns and surrounding villages near Rissani and Erfoud, women also wear tahruets; however, they are simpler in nature, usually just a solid black. The women in this area also tend to use the tahruet to cover all but one eye, as they are descendents of the Alawite dynasty (the dynasty of the present-day king Mohamed VI), which tends to be more conservative and more distinctly Arabic. In the other towns and surrounding villages near Merzouga, Rissani, and Aoufous, women again embroider their tahruets with designs, but these vary slightly from those found near Tinejdad and Goulmima, because the women are descendants of the Ait Atta tribe.
Tinjdad, Morocco
The town of Tinjdad, Morocco is located in Eastern Morocco on the main road from Ouarzazate to Errachidia/Erfoud about forty kilometers past Tinghir. Most of its population consists of Berbers from the Ait Merad tribe, and despite the French and Arab conquests of the Berbers of Morocco, its original culture and language are largely intact as you can quickly observe in their daily activities, primary spoken language, and traditions.
Its History
Originally, Tinjdad consisted of a small desert oasis called Ferkla. Its first inhabitants were nomads, called injda in their native tongue, traveling from the nearby High Atlas Mountains and the Jbel Sarhro mountains. As time passed, more and more of injda built ksars within the Ferkla oasis, making it their permanent home. Generally, each ksar was surrounded by walls with some watchtowers at different points and one or several huge entrances and was made up several houses, a mosque, a place for parties and sometimes an inn. The Ferkla oasis continued to grow and a large marketplace was built in the center of the Asrir ksar, where all of the major trade in the area took place. Within the oasis, there was also a large population of Jews who contributed largely to the craftsmanship and business activities of the area. When the French colonized Morocco, they moved the commercial center of the town to its current location. Post-French colonization, the area was given its present-day name Tinjdad, which in the original Berber dialect of the region means “place of nomads.” The entire Jewish population has since vanished but a significant portion of the population is still of Berber decent and speaks the Berber dialect of Tamazight.
Its Present
Tinjdad is well worth a visit if you happen to be going to the nearby Gorges of Tinghir or Boulmane Dades or if you are on your way to the dunes of Merzouga. Tinjdad is home to 18 intact ksars, a museum, an artifacts crafts gallery, a small art gallery, a unique hotel, and several charming cafes. You can visit several of the ksars on foot, bicycle, or in a car (Asrir, El Korbat, Sat, and Gaardmit are highly recommended). The museum and hotel are inside the El Korbat ksar. The museum primarily exhibits the past and present daily life and culture of the Berbers in the area (in Spanish, French, English, Catalina, and Arabic). The hotel is a top-notch establishment cleverly woven throughout the inside of the ksar’s walls. Zaid’s Gallery contains several old crafts and artifacts from the area and is owned by a local of the same name (he speaks English, French, German, and Arabic). Rachid Bouskri’s art gallery is located near the road to Asrir, and Rachid is a local artist who primarily paints impressionistic and abstract works with the general theme of each work encompassing daily life in Tinjdad (he speaks Tamazight, French, Arabic, and a little English). He is also my host brother, and has been amazingly helpful in getting me settled in and introducing me to the town. The two most notable cafes are Café Panorama and Café Ferkla (Both owners speak French, Arabic, and a little English). While both boast good food, charm, and plenty of tea and coffee, Café Panorama is located on the front edge of town facing Tinghir and has a panoramic view of the surrounding palm oasis and mountains. Café Ferkla is located on the other side of town near the main market, and if you come by on a souk day (Sunday and Wednesday), this area is bustling. For more information, please email any questions or requests to visit_tinjdad@yahoo.com .Tahruets
Before concrete houses came to the small desert villages in Eastern Morocco, most people lived in large mud buildings that were linked together to form ksars. Within these ksars, women could come and go to gather water and attend the fields; however, when a woman left her house, it was normal and expected that she cover most of herself in a shawl/scarf referred to as a tahruet. At first, tahruets were a simple solid black, the color chosen to better absorb heat from the sun. Later on, women began to embroider colorful Berber symbols on the tahruets.
In the towns of Tinejdad and Goulmima and the surrounding villages, the embroidery on tahruets consists of brightly colored ancient Berber symbols, usually coming from modifications of the popular letter Z from the Tamazight alphabet (tifinagh), which has come to stand for Berber pride. There are also a few symbols that represent the moon and the stars, which are very important to the Berber tribes near the Sahara since they are essential for activity and travel in the desert nights. The tahruets of this area are similar because most of the people are descendants of the Ait Merad Berber tribe. In many of the towns and surrounding villages near Rissani and Erfoud, women also wear tahruets; however, they are simpler in nature, usually just a solid black. The women in this area also tend to use the tahruet to cover all but one eye, as they are descendents of the Alawite dynasty (the dynasty of the present-day king Mohamed VI), which tends to be more conservative and more distinctly Arabic. In the other towns and surrounding villages near Merzouga, Rissani, and Aoufous, women again embroider their tahruets with designs, but these vary slightly from those found near Tinejdad and Goulmima, because the women are descendants of the Ait Atta tribe.
Saturday, November 3, 2007
Soo much to catch up on...
So as usual, a lot has happened in the past week and I am faced with the task of writing an entry that has a lot of stuff out of order. I have gotten my wallet stolen, experienced Moroccoween, and gotten my site announcement! My site is in a small town of about 17,600 people called Tinjdad, in South Eastern Morocco. It is about an hour south east of Errachidia, which is the closest semi large city, and about an hour and a half West of Algeria (See attached map with me confused and pointing).
I have just arrived here yesterday and my first impressions are that I really lucked out. The town is fairly big and seems to be very active. It is on the edge of the Sahara and surrounded by mountains. According to the current volunteer who I am replacing, there is a problem with sand storms in the summer. But not to worry, he said he'll give me his ski goggles for protection. Awesome.
The town speaks mainly Berber, although everyone seems to speak Arabic, and surprisingly, a good amount of people speak English as well. I continue to find the amount of different languages spoken to be amazing. There are kids here who are fluent in 3 languages or more and are the same age I was when I first began speaking English well.
The bus ride down here is an adventure in itself in which I should comment on briefly. It took me about nine hours total and was beautiful in that we went right through the High Atlas Mountains. If only I could have stopped thinking about Babel... When in Errachidia I was able to practice my Arabic by figuring out how I was getting to Tinjdad. I found a public bus to take me there, and had to stand for nearly the entire hour long ride. As uncomfortable as it was, it was a really cool experience(common PC theme).
I have just arrived here yesterday and my first impressions are that I really lucked out. The town is fairly big and seems to be very active. It is on the edge of the Sahara and surrounded by mountains. According to the current volunteer who I am replacing, there is a problem with sand storms in the summer. But not to worry, he said he'll give me his ski goggles for protection. Awesome.
The town speaks mainly Berber, although everyone seems to speak Arabic, and surprisingly, a good amount of people speak English as well. I continue to find the amount of different languages spoken to be amazing. There are kids here who are fluent in 3 languages or more and are the same age I was when I first began speaking English well.
The bus ride down here is an adventure in itself in which I should comment on briefly. It took me about nine hours total and was beautiful in that we went right through the High Atlas Mountains. If only I could have stopped thinking about Babel... When in Errachidia I was able to practice my Arabic by figuring out how I was getting to Tinjdad. I found a public bus to take me there, and had to stand for nearly the entire hour long ride. As uncomfortable as it was, it was a really cool experience(common PC theme).
As for Halloween in Morocco, it was better then I had ever imagined the celebration of a holiday in country in which it doesn't exist could be. We carved Moroccan pumpkins(which are crazy looking oval gourds), and dressed up for a costume party. I was diarrhea and a fellow PC counterpart was Pepto Bismal...which is a lot funnier if your in the PC. We even got our Arabic teachers and staff to dress up, although they must have thought we were pretty strange. To me it seems like Halloween to an outside makes slaughtering a lamb for a holiday look like a normal thing.
I am now off for an action packed week of figuring out the basics of my site. I shall be updating on this info soon, EnShaLlah.
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